Walls won't miter correctly

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Paul Tacy
Paul Tacy's picture
Walls won't miter correctly
SoftPlan Version:
2014 Plus

Hi,I'm new here.  Well, let's say I'm a long time listener, first time caller.  I want to say how valuable this forum has been to me in learning SoftPlan.  Thanks to you all, I've managed to figure out so much just by reading the posts.

BUT, this one I can't wrap my brain around - why some exterior walls will not connect correctly, leaving gaps at outside corners and throwing off the corner boards.  I've read it may have to do with different height walls, but when it happens, I don't have a choice but to have different height walls.  The latest is a false dormer (walls are different heights).  I hope I'm attaching a jpeg of the offending dormer.  If it works, can someone please take me by the hand and walk me through how to solve this?

Any help for a new guy would be greatly appreciated!  I'm sure this won't be my last question.

Paul

Bill Wimberley
Bill Wimberley's picture
Wall joins

I can't really tell just from the picture. It could be any number of things. For instance hidden walls will not join to unhidden walls. Also, as you mentioned, walls that are not close to the same height will not join. But from what I can see your walls should join up. The front wall and the side walls should be pretty much the same height in the corners.

Really though, the only way to tell what is going on would be to see the SoftPlan drawings. If you will attach the drawing file to a post I'm sure someone will be able to help you out here. If you do that be sure to indicate what version of SoftPlan you are using.

One other question... Is the dormer open to the interior or is it a false dormer just for looks?

Bill is the owner and maintainer of SoftPlanTuts.com

Paul Tacy
Paul Tacy's picture
Wow!  Thanks for the quick

Wow!  Thanks for the quick response!  I was afraid you'd need a spd, but I have no clue how to attach one.  I've tried here to attach the second floor plan- hope it works.

The dormer is supposed to be open to the interior but I couldn't figure out how to do a normal dormer, so the false dormer was my work-around.  I'm brand new to this, just bought Version 2014+ in August.

Paul

AttachmentSize
Binary Data second_floor_plan.spd115.28 KB
Bill Wimberley
Bill Wimberley's picture
Fit bottom to roof

You have the side walls set to "Fit Bottom to Roof" but the front wall is not. So effectively the front wall is 8' tall and the side walls are about 2 1/2' tall. Edit the front wall and make it "Fit Bottom to Roof" as well. Also since you have the dormer walls hidden you are going to have a hole in the wall below when you print so you should run the wall all the way across.

Paul Tacy
Paul Tacy's picture
Bill,

Bill,

Thanks so much for clearing that up - it worked perfectly.  You really deserve a medal or something for taking the time to help us out!

Now....Just below that dormer, the gable end wall doesn't behave either.  I've attached a jpeg (I hope) showing the gap there.  The rear wall (on the right) is a first floor wall, 8' tall, fit to soffit.  On top of the floor system is a "nailer" plate on which the rafters sit.  I've tried using just "plate" and a 1 1/2" tall wall with the same definition as the first floor wall - no difference.  I've also tried "cover floor" for the 1 1/2" wall with siding.  This just leaves a gap under the soffit.

The gable end wall is multi-height on the second floor.  I've attached a piece of the cross section, hoping it might help visualize.

One other question is why the shingle siding has a course which is only 1/2 as high as the rest.  Unrelated?

Any ideas out there on what I'm missing?

Thanks so much for the help!

Paul

Bill Wimberley
Bill Wimberley's picture
Wall

It looks to me like you need to adjust that upper gable wall, making it about 2" longer toward the front so that the corner boards line up top and bottom. Or you could try replacing your nailer plate with a 1 1/2" tall siding wall so that you form a corner.

The 1/2 course of cedar shakes is due to the height of the walls not being an exact factor of the repeat pattern of the texture. For example your wall height may be 8'-1 1/8" tall and the texture size may be 24" tall. Textures start at the bottom and repeat as they go up. So in the example I gave the texture starts repeating again at 8' and stops at 8' 1 1/8" which is the top of the wall. Then it starts fresh again on the second floor.

If it is really bugging you then you could balloon frame the entire side of the house or you could adjust the size of the texture. For example if the texture is currently 24" tall and the walls are 8'-1 1/8" tall you could make the texture 24.2813" tall (dividing the height of the wall by 4) to have the texture stop at exactly the top of the first floor wall and then start again at the bottom of the 2nd floor wall.

Paul Tacy
Paul Tacy's picture
Bill,

Bill,

Again, thanks for the quick reply.

As I said, I did try using a siding wall at 1 1/2" height, and it made no difference.  I considered moving the plate out 2", and I'll try that tomorrow.

The explanation of the half course of shingles was clear as a bell.  I'll adjust that as well.  The exposure is too much anyway.

It's the details that drive me nuts.

Thanks again.

Paul