Roof Issues

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Roof Issues
SoftPlan Version:
2014 Plus

I am having some issues with a roof I am doing and am looking for some assistance.

I am attaching ( hopefully ) two jpegs that show what I am trying to do.  The issues I am having problems with are as follows;

1) I have created that style of roof where the roof edges from the peak part way down each side extends a little farther out than the rest of the  

    roof.   I accomplished this by extending the roof overhang more than required then cut back the lower portions of the overhang using Trace

    Rectangular Hole.        

2) When I extend the overhang of the False Dormers from 18" to 24"  so I could then cut some back it actually lifts the dormer up away from the

    Main Roof it bears on, and I can't seem to get it to cleanup back down onto the main roof.  Yo can see this in one of the attached pics.

3) I want to have a Bird Box style fascia at the dormer/main roof intersection but it seems using the Trace Hole method to cut the roof edge

    back prevents the program from being able to create this ?   Can this be done or should I be creating the extended roof areas some other way ?

4) When I fit wall to roof under the false gables it want to push the main roof up.  I think it is somehow referencing the upper roof to some degree

    although it doesn't go quite that high.  Is the best way to deal with this to split the wall below the false gable ?

The extended roof areas will eventually have decorative gable trusses drawn in beneath them.  I appreciate any help.'s picture
Additional Pic

Here is another pic.



Bill M
Bill M's picture
Probably not a lot of help

Probably not a lot of help except to say I've had to redraw the false gables when the roof lifts up like this.  Did they have the bird box prior to tracing the rectangle?  I wouldn't think the bird box could be re-applied because SP doesn't see that edge as the actual edge.'s picture

Bill, yes the Birdbox was fine when when I first applied the False Gable.  

Problems arise when I extended the roof gable roof out an extra 6" so that when I cut part of it away the lower sections

of the roof would align with the main roof overhand i.e. the main roof and lower portions of the false gable have 18" OH

and the upper portions of the false gable are to have 24" OH.  The step out accomodates and highlites the decorative

truss to be applied there and provides ample room behind that for lighting.

As soon as I make the false gable have a 24" OH it actually moves the whole roof out and up or out and away from the

main roof.  As an alternative I tried using Insert Polygon Edges on the Roof but that didn't work.

Also when I Cut a Hole it seems as if the junction between the main roof and intersecting false gable ( where the birdbox

should be ) doesn't seem to be able to recogonize what I want to do ?




Bill M
Bill M's picture
I went and played with one I

I went and played with one I have and I forget that the false gable doesn't allow an edge edit where you would probably choose the bird box, etc so I don't know how that could be dealt with.  

Bill Wimberley
Bill Wimberley's picture
False Gable

Instead of using False Gable try using False Dormer.

  1. Set the width to the total width you want the gable to be minus 2*overhang. So if you want the total gable to be 10' and you have 18" overhangs the False Dormer would be set to 7'.
  2. Uncheck Opening and select a wall to match the type of finish you want to show in the gable. Select OK and place the dormer.
  3. Switch to Drawing Mode. Edit the dormer walls and uncheck Rake Top and Rake Bottom for all the dormer walls. Give the all dormer walls a height of 0" and make sure they have an offset equal to the height of the exterior wall below.
  4. Edit the front dormer wall and check Fit to Soffit for the Adjust Wall Surface to....
  5. Switch back to Roof Mode. Edit the dormer hips and set the TOP to Fascia to be the same as the TOP to Fascia for the roof below. This will set the dormer down on the roof below.
  6. Edit the gable and increase the overhang to add additional overhang for the upper portion that will protrude.
  7. Use Trace Hole to cut out the roof under the dormer.
  8. Use Trace Rect Hole to cut out for the lower gable edge, leaving the upper portion protruding. Make sure that when you cut the hole you leave at least 1/8" protruding past the roof below.

Bill is the owner and maintainer of

Bill M
Bill M's picture
Nice Bill!  Archive this one!

Nice Bill!  Archive this one!  

Jim would love to see the finished product.'s picture
Roof Issues

Bill W & Bill M, thanks a million for the feedback on my roof issue.   Bill W. using the False Dormer instead of False Gable

did the trick.  It is still a little fussy but it gets me where I need to go.  Because the transom windows in the dormers cross

over walls from the main floor and dormer I had to use an Arch and line it up with the window to make a hole in the wall.

This is not a finished product but here is how the roof turned out.



Bill M
Bill M's picture
"It is still a little fussy .

"It is still a little fussy ..."

I had to chuckle Jim, I think the roof is the fussiest thing in SP.  The rendering looks great, very nice.  

Question, are you using solids to draw the trusses in the gables?'s picture

For the Decorative Gable Trusses I created 3D Symbols.


Mike Landry
Mike Landry's picture
I agree, nice rendering and

I agree, nice rendering and nice trusses. I often do quick deck designs without the footings

as you show in the drawing. What would the steps be to extend the posts to grade and add



Mike's picture
Post To Grade

I would normally do the deck piers, posts and beams on a seperate foundation level drawing along with the

foundation for the building ( could be a full foundation or piers and beams for the building too ).   At the

time I did this rendering I was working on the roof and hadn't yet worked on the deck foundation.

In our neck of woods ( Ontario ) most of the local Municipalities are looking for 3 ply support beams as that

is what the Tables outline in our Building Code.   When I was building many years ago we constructed all

decks with the 4 x 4 Support Posts extending down through the deck to the pier, and through bolted a 2 x 8

or 2 x 10 on each side of the post thereby making a 2 ply support structure ( albeit not  nailed together ),

and the 4 x 4 posts doubled as the posts for the railings above ( known as guards in our Code ).


Nowadays with most of our Bldg Officials being book taught with little to no field experience they typically are

looking for structures they can trace back to the book, or the aforementioned 3 Ply Beams.


We typically don't extend the posts down to the piers anymore.   We rest the 3 Ply support beams

ontop of the post/piers structures, and build the railings ( guard assemblies ) ontop of the deck with support

down to the beam where required.  In most instances we can no longer use 4 x 4 posts for deck support but

instead must use 6 x 6's.